Transmission Do-it-Yourself Installation Procedures
installing an automatic transmission in a rear wheel drive vehicle.
beginning - Please Read these Safety Precautions
THINGS YOU WILL NEED
An assistant to
help raise the transmission in place
followed our DIY
Instructions for Removing
Your Automatic Transmission,
is already jacked up and secured with jack stands. Below are
the transmission installation instructions.
Poor one quart of transmission fluid
into the torque converter and install the torque converter in the
transmission. See Note below.
You must be certain the torque converter is fully seated into the
transmission before installation. You should feel three
distinctive clicks each time the converter drops into place.
Continue wiggling the torque converter and rotating it back and forth
while pushing in until it is fully engaged. Do not proceed
transmission installation until the converter is fully engaged.
Tip: If you had your transmission rebuilt,
ask the rebuilder to install the torque converter into the
Install any brackets to the
transmission that were removed after the transmission was removed from
Flush transmission cooler
Cooler Line Note: Flushing
the cooler lines before installing a new or rebuilt transmission is
necessary to insure the new transmission is not contaminated with
debris and metal left in the lines from the old transmission.
flush the lines, first blow compressed air through the lines.
a gallon milk jug to catch the fluid and debris as it is blown out of
the lines. After blowing compressed air through the lines,
transmission line flush product to complete the flush. Follow
instructions provided with product.
the mating surfaces of both the transmission bell housing and engine
for dirt and grease and clean as needed. Also check the dowel
pins on the engine and the dowel pin holes on the transmission as they
also must be clean and free of burs.
closely at the crank pilot hole to insure it is free of burs, dirt and
rust. Use a small round file to remove any burs.
check to make sure electrical wiring and cables are moved aside so as
not to interfere with the transmission installation.
up one side of the transmission and have your assistant slide the jack
under the transmission pan. With the transmission balanced on
jack, slide the jack under the vehicle. Position the jack so
when it is raised the transmission bell housing will be slightly behind
the transmissions stable on the jack while raising it. When
transmission is in position, carefully slide the jack forward until the
bell housing touches the back of the engine. You may need to
raise or lower the jack slightly or move it slightly to one side or the
other to line up the dowels with the dowel holes. Once lined
push the transmission forward. When the dowel pins are in the
dowel holes, install the bell housing bolts.
Bell Housing Bolt Installation and Tightening Note:
you have the transmission bell housing bolt holes lined up with the
threaded holes in the engine block then start a couple of bolts and
tighten just enough so the transmission does not slip back away from
the engine block. Then install the remaining bolts.
DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN ANY OF THE BOLTS UNTIL ALL THE BELL HOUSING BOLTS
ARE STARTED AND SNUG.
not attempt to draw (or force) the transmission into position by
tightening the bell housing bolts as doing so can crack the bell
housing. You have to be sure the transmission and engine
block mating surfaces are lined up on both the top/bottom and the
left/right axis before tightening the bolts.
the torque converter bolts. Line up the torque converter
with the holes in the flywheel. Install one bolt but do not
tighten. Then, use a large flat head screwdriver or small pry
to wedge between the flywheel teeth and the bell housing to turn the
engine in order to gain access to the next bolt hole. Repeat
until all the torque converter bolts are installed. Once all
bolts have been started then tighten each bolt to the proper torque
Next, install the starter.
Get both starter bolts started before fully tightening the
bolts. In some instances, it is easier to connect the starter
wire(s) before bolting the starter in place. Either way,
connect the starter wires at this time.
up/plug in all electrical connectors and vacuum hoses.
the transmission oil filler dipstick tube. Install the new
tube O-ring that came with the rebuild kit.
Install the cooler lines, shifter linkage, exhaust,
flywheel/flex-plate cover, cross member and then the driveshaft.
the jack and all tools from underneath the vehicle. Jack up
vehicle and remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the
the battery and reconnect the battery cable(s). If both
cables have been disconnected, install the positive battery cable first
and then the negative cable. Plug in any top side
electrical connectors and vacuum hoses. Install any top side
parts that you removed during transmission removal.
5 to 6 quarts of transmission fluid into the transmission.
will need a funnel with a small opening so that it fits down into the
transmission oil filler tube. Start the engine and with the
pedal depressed, move the shifter through each of the gears a coupler
of times and then place the shifter back to the Park position.
With the engine still running, add two
more quarts of transmission fluid and move the shifter through the
gears again and then back to Park.
the engine still running, insert the dipstick into the filler tube and
then pull it back out to check the fluid level. Add fluid as
needed until the dipstick shows "full" or in the "full range".
Check underneath the vehicle for
leaks. If no leaks, it is time to test drive the
vehicle. Good luck.
a Transmission Estimate onlin